Featured How to build an AR-15 - thearmsguide.com

Published on May 28th, 2016 | by Nate Schultz (nsz85)

110

How to Build an AR-15: A Beginner’s Guide

You do not always have to go to a gun store to purchase an AR-15. Surprised? I know I was when I first ventured into the hobby of building custom AR-15s. Some of you may not know, but building your own AR-15 is actually quite simple. However, if you do not know anything about the process, or where to start, you have come to the right place. I am going to start this “How to Build an AR-15” series off with a list of frequently asked questions that I receive from individuals starting out with the hobby and possibly wanting to build their first AR-15.

WARNING! Building AR rifles is highly addictive.  Once you start this process, you will find excuses to build .308 ARs, AR pistols and long range precision rifles.  You have been warned.

Building an AR-15 FAQ

Q: Are there any rules or laws for building my own AR-15?
A: Only the same ones that apply to purchasing a factory assembled AR-15 in your state.

Q: Do I need to register my AR-15?
A: There is currently no Federal firearms registry, but you’ll need to verify the registry laws by state (e.g., New York does require registry of “assault rifles,” including standard AR-15 rifles).

My AR-15 - thearmsguide.com

Me smiling after taking some of the first shots with the first AR-15 that I built for myself. Photo of me courtesy of paul-vincent.com

Q: Do I need to be licensed or be a gunsmith to build my own AR-15?
A: Not unless you’re milling the lower receiver yourself.

Q: How many AR-15s can I build?
A: As many as you would like to—whichever comes first.

Q: If I build an AR-15 for myself, can I then sell it?
A: The same laws for private sales of firearms apply to selling AR-15 rifles. Check your state laws.

Q: How do I buy a “stripped” or “blank” AR-15 lower receiver?
A: You will need to find a dealer that sells AR-15 lower receivers. Said dealer can be local to you, or online.

Q: Can I buy all the parts online and have them shipped to my home?
A: This is a long one, so get comfortable. Yes and no. All of the components for your AR-15 build can be shipped directly to you at your home except the lower receiver.

The AR-15 lower receiver is the only component that is considered the “gun”. Therefore, when purchasing a lower receiver for your AR-15 build, you will have to go through the same channels as when purchasing a firearm in your state.

For example, in my state of Minnesota, if I order a stripped AR-15 lower receiver online, I will have to provide the seller with a copy of an FFL (Federal Firearms License) and the address to aforementioned FFL. In other words, I just have to call my local gun shop and ask them to fax a copy of their FFL to the seller. The seller will then collect money from me for the receiver, and then ship it to my local gun shop. When the gun shop calls me to tell me that my lower receiver has arrived, I will go there and fill out the ATF form to make sure I can legally own a firearm, pay a transfer fee (this fee is usually less than $30), and take my new AR-15 lower receiver home (thankfully, Minnesota has no waiting period for long gun purchases).

If I decide not to order online, and I know of a gun shop that stocks lower receivers nearby, I can just go purchase it directly from that store, and then fill out the necessary ATF form, just as I would for purchasing any other kind of firearm.

Q: What parts make up an AR-15 that I would have to purchase to build one?
A: There are a variety of different types of AR-15 builds, so this list will not work for all builds. However, I put together a list of components for building a typical M-4 style AR-15 with a stripped lower receiver, and stripped upper receiver:

  1. AR-15 lower receiver.
  2. AR-15 upper receiver.
  3. Lower receiver parts kit.
  4. Upper receiver parts kit.
  5. Lower receiver extension (aka: the buffer tube).
  6. Buffer.
  7. Buffer spring.
  8. Barrel & gas block/gas system (a carbine length gas system would be typical for this build).
  9. Handguards (length will depend on what length gas system you chose on your barrel: carbine, mid-length, or rifle).
  10. Bolt carrier group (carrier, bolt, firing pin, cam, extractor, ejector and spring).
  11. Collapsible (or fixed, if you prefer) buttstock.
  12. At least one magazine (be sure to check your state laws for magazine capacity limits).

Q: What is the difference between a forged lower receiver and a billet lower receiver?
A: With a forged lower receiver, the metal is “smashed” into the desired form while it is red hot. This compresses the metal and makes it very strong.

Billet lower receivers are machined from a single block of metal and tend to have a more custom, aesthetically pleasing appearance to some. It also tends to have the trigger guard built in, meaning it is not removable. They also tend to cost considerably more than a forged lower. Billet lowers may not have quite the tolerance that forged lowers, but by no means are they to be considered “weak.”

MEGA Billet Lower - thearmsguide.com

This is an example of a billet AR-15 lower receiver. Image courtesy of megaarms.com

MEGA Forged Lower - thearmsguide.com

This is an example of a forged AR-15 lower receiver. Image courtesy of megaarms.com

 

Q: How do I know which lower receiver to purchase? What “brands” are good?
A: There are a tremendous amount of different lowers out on the market, but not every lower is made by the company that has its name on the side. You would be surprised at how many lowers from different companies actually come from probably less than a dozen machine shops.

At present, this is the list of which manufacturers produce lowers for which companies:

Lewis Machine & Tool

  • LMT
  • Lauer
  • DS Arms
  • PWA
  • Eagle
  • Armalite
  • Knights Armament
  • Barrett

Continental Machine Tool

  • Stag
  • Rock River Arms
  • High Standard
  • Noveske
  • Century (New)
  • Global Tactical
  • CLE
  • S&W
  • MGI
  • Wilson Tactical
  • Grenadier Precision
  • Colt

LAR Manufacturing

  • LAR
  • Bushmaster
  • Ameetec
  • DPMS
  • CMMG
  • Double Star
  • Fulton Armory
  • Spike’s Tactical

JVP

  • Double Star
  • LRB
  • Charles Daly

Mega Machine Shop

  • Mega
  • GSE
  • Dalphon
  • POF
  • Alexander Arms

Olympic

  • Olympic
  • SGW
  • Tromix
  • Palmetto
  • Dalphon
  • Frankford
  • Century (Old)

Sun Devil

  • Sun Devil forged billet receivers

Superior

  • Superior Arms
  • Lauer (New)

Aero Precision

  • Aero Precision

Considering that almost all AR-15 lower receivers are made to a very specific tolerance, based on military specifications (mil-spec), my advice is to choose whichever AR-15 lower receiver that has a roll-mark (or logo) that you think is “coolest” or is most appealing to you personally.

Q: Some barrels say they are chambered in 5.56 and some say they are chambered in .223. What is the difference?
A: Basically, the rule of thumb is this: a rifle chambered for 5.56 can shoot both 5.56 and .223 ammunition. A rifle chambered for .223 can only shoot .223 and not 5.56. For the full story on 5.56 vs. .223, check out this article by Destinee.

Q: What does barrel twist mean? 1:7 and 1:9? Ratio? What?
A: Confused? Yeah, this one is kind of technical but I will keep it simple. When choosing a barrel twist ratio, you will want to choose one that best matches the type of ammo you would normally be shooting. What the ratio means, such as 1:7 for example, is that when the bullet travels down the barrel, it will make one complete spin (via the rifling) every seven inches.

AR-15 1:7 vs 1:9 Ratio - thearmsguide.com

(Fig. 1a)This is great information about shooting 1:7 vs. 1:9 twist ratios at long distances through your AR-15.

This is one of the most hotly debated topics about AR-15 rifles. Personally, I chose to go with 1:7 because it gives me the option of shooting the heavier rounds. Because 55gr .223/5.56 is the most common bullet weight available (that’s the weight used in XM193 military ball 5.56×45 ammo), and the most frequently fired, you would be fine with either 1:7 or 1:9. I have also been told by reputable sources in law enforcement that 1:9 is recommended for plinking, and 1:7 for hunting and home defense.

To break it down, 1:7 will do just fine with shooting lighter and heavier rounds. 1:9, on the other hand, will handle lighter rounds better, and will not do so well with anything heavy at long distances. (Fig. 1a)

Carbine vs Mid-Length vs Rifle AR-15 - thearmsguide.com

A comparison photo of different length gas systems, barrels and rail systems for an AR-15. Image courtesy of laruetactical.com

Q: What does carbine, mid-length and rifle length mean when choosing a barrel?
A: It simply means where the gas port in the barrel is placed. It is also sometimes referred to as the “gas-system”. Carbine and mid-length gas systems tend to be on barrels of 16-18 inches and shorter, while barrels with a length of 20 inches and longer will have a rifle length gas system.

It is important to know what length gas system your barrel has because the gas tube you purchase will need to be the right length in order to fit properly. For example, you cannot fit a carbine length gas tube onto a barrel with a rifle length gas system. The gas tube will be too short.

Q: I am ready to build my AR-15 lower receiver but I do not know the steps. How do I do it?
A: Great question. In the following posts in this “How to Build an AR-15” series, I will go over how to build your AR-15 (starting with building your lower receiver, and moving from there to the AR-15 upper), what tools you will need, and I’ll offer some helpful tips along the way. Stay tuned.

About the Author

Nate Schultz is employed within the field of Law Enforcement, is an avid shooter, firearms enthusiast and hobbiest gunsmith. When he is not writing for The Arms Guide, he is producing content for his YouTube channel: www.youtube.com/nsz85


  • ecs5298

    Anxiously awaiting part 2!  Thanks Nate!

    • You are very welcome. Part 2 should be next Saturday if everything goes as planned. Stay tuned 🙂

  • peter3101

    Oh well there goes Sunday afternoons, now you need to add to the parts list a “note” for the Soup Dragon, anything that explains its a therapeutic activity and not another gun…..thanks   ;o)

  • Wysiwyg101

    Thx Nate. Some very good info here. Perhaps you could find a better photo of the differences between a Carbine, mid and rifle length 16″ Upper receiver. Also, do you pronounce it Carbine (rhymes with brine) or Carbine (as in bean)? 

    I currently have a stripped lower receiver (GPI Custom Gunworks….didn’t see them on the list) and a Palmetto State Armory LPK with Magpul furniture, buffer and buffer spring. I wanted so badly to get in on the awesome Palmetto 4th of July sale which included a very nice looking complete Upper Receiver for a very nice price ($499) but I just couldn’t swing the cash in time. Oh well, maybe next time. That’s all I need and I’ll be able to have the smile on my face from shooting mine for the first time like you did in your photo. It sucks that I am living in the situation where my lovely wife doesn’t like my gun “hobby” so I have to hide stuff from her all the time.

    Anyways, looking forward to Part Two. Great series so far.

    • I have always pronounced it car-bean since that’s how I have always heard it pronounced. It might be a regional thing, though.
      As far as lowers go, there are many different names out there and it’s almost impossible to find confirmation on who machines for who.
      I hope you enjoy part two as well 🙂

  • chyldeorchid

    will any of the future installments touch on 0% or 80% lower receivers?

    • I am not saying that I won’t touch on that topic, but as of right now I am not very experienced or well versed on it. We shall see what the future has in store. Stay tuned 🙂

      • chyldeorchid

        I only ask because I have my first 80% lower on its way as soon as 2AM Arms finishes their materials test & have very little idea what to expect.

        • chyldeorchid You will have to find a machine shop to mill it out for you.

  • I seriously wish I had read this when I was building my first AR last year.

    • I will take that as one heck of a compliment, Dest. Thank you! I hope people will learn all they need to know through reading this series.

  • Rev2DaLimit

    The break down of where “naked” lowers come from is so helpful. I’ve wondered about that before. I was aware that a lot of them were made in the same place but hadn’t seen them all catagorized by machine shop before. Nice!

    • I knew it was something I always would’ve liked to know when starting. I am glad you found it helpful 🙂

  • JunkfoodZombie

    To make one very important point …… There ARE places where you must register your AR-15 “assault rifle.” The NY “SAFE” act (safe, my a**) will require everyone in NY to register their ARs by a certain date this (or next) year. It would be wise for everyone to check their local laws about registration. Here in TN, I do not have to register hamdguns, but my family in NY does. Don’t risk getting thrown in jail. Check your local laws!

    • JunkfoodZombie

      Notice “assault rifle” is in quotes because it’s a BS term for ARs……….

    • JunkfoodZombieYes, this is correct. It is everyone’s responsibility to know the laws of their state. I could have worded it better, but I was referring to the fact that there is no national registry.

  • HugeFan

    Be careful new comers: Building AR’s becomes a hobby… a disease. They’re so adaptable to the desire of the shooter that your “first build” will never actually be completed not will it be your last. The good news is that you don’t really need more than two or three lowers(SBR’s will need a stamp as NS mentioned) because you can just build all sorts of uppers that will just bolt on to your lower. It’s a thing of beauty. There will always be new rails, triggers, sights, etc. that will slowly erode your bank account into something that used to stand for fiscal responsibility.

  • HugeFan

    Be careful new comers: Building AR’s becomes a hobby… a disease. They’re so adaptable to the desire of the shooter that your “first build” will never actually be completed not will it be your last. The good news is that you don’t really need more than two or three lowers(SBR’s will need a stamp as NS mentioned) because you can just build all sorts of uppers that will just bolt on to your lower. It’s a thing of beauty. There will always be new rails, triggers, sights, etc. that will slowly erode your bank account into something that used to stand for fiscal responsibility.

    • minetech

      HugeFan …so true

  • SBRsrule

    JunkfoodZombie we’ll its a good thing that they are assault weapons and not assault rifles,,,,unless you have select fire,  semi, burst, full. just semi and safe is not select fire, so in term NOT assault rifle. New York SUCKS and Bloomberg can kiss my ass. I’m glad I don’t live there.

  • Beardthirty

    And “AR”doesn’t even mean Assault Rifle. A huge misconception with the AR. It actually means Armalite Rifle,which comes from the first manufacturer of the rifle.

  • Sns77

    Pretty sure that you have to do the miling yourself. Whomever does the work becomes the manufacturer of the firearm, and cannot transfer it legally.

  • chyldeorchid

    Sns77 That’s correct, but if you have the Jig, the drilling/milling isn’t too difficult, and you end up with a firearm that you MADE yourself, not just assembled.

  • Tyler0587

    where is part two?

  • AdamHo

    JunkfoodZombiewhat they dont know wont hurt em. remember….registration leads to confiscation in EVERY case. It just lets to gun grabbers know where the guns are.

  • AdamHo

    JunkfoodZombiewhat they dont know wont hurt em. remember….registration leads to confiscation in EVERY case. It just lets to gun grabbers know where the guns are.

  • JunkfoodZombie

    Shhhhhhhh… 😉

  • JTMako

    Nice write up. Thanks for taking the time & effort to put this out there.

  • JMendez

    Is there a link for part2?

  • Sam Freedom

    Absolutely amazing article.  This is not kinda what I was looking for… it’s *exactly* what I was looking for… god bless you, Nate..

  • Sam Freedom

    HugeFan Looking forward to it, thanks!

  • thederdog

    Is there a AR-15 built in 7.62

  • JunkfoodZombie

    Which 7.62?
    7.62×39? Yes, but not all that common.
    7.62×51? Yes, that would be the AR-10 platform.

  • thederdog

    Thanks, can I build a AR-10 in the same fashion as a AR-15 ?

  • thederdog

    Can I build a AR-10 in the same fashion as a AR-15

  • JunkfoodZombie

    Yeah. It’s basically the same rifle with sime larger parts. 7.62×51 was the original caliber for the M16 platform, It was the AR-10 first. It was quickly changed to accomodate the 5.56×45 round and dubbed the AR-15, then the M16.

  • thederdog

    In the 7.62×51, what twist would you suggest. I have been a pistol guy most of my life. Moved to Washington and now am starting to see a need for rifles. Purchased my first rifle (Winchester 30/30) a few weeks ago and have enjoyed it more than I thought iwould. So I am pretty green with my knowledge on rifles

  • JunkfoodZombie

    Depends on what weight bullets you plan on shooting. A 1:12 twist is good for 170 grains and below. A 1:10 is better for heavier bullets and 1:11 is a giod compromise. Any twist will shoot any weight but each twist is going to shoot certain weights more accurately than others. I would suggest doing some research to see which twist is best for the bullets you plan on shooting. Good luck!

  • HugeFan

    I’ve built only six (two of which are mine) but with each build your able to develop shorthand techniques and functional improvements that make the hobby as fun as shooting the rifle itself. I wish you both good luck!

  • thederdog

    Thanks a ton, really appreciate your help.

  • thederdog

    The adaptability is the main reason for my choosing the AR-10. Actually looking forward to my first build.

  • JunkfoodZombie

    Any time. You can check out my YouTube channel. It’s JunkfoodZombie. (One word). I try to put a variety of stuff on there and much of it is geared towards helping other people. Good luck with the build!

  • Sam Freedom

    Are there parts lists freely shared by other users fur builds they have made or do ppl guard their creations with all their might? Like making anything, id like to gather everything first. And rather than start from scratch, maybe I could look over some others have made…

  • JunkfoodZombie

    You can probably find plenty online. Same parts as an AR 15, only differences for the most part are dimensions and specs. Should be easy to find. Some parts are common to both like triggers and safety levers, while others like the lower receiver and bolt carrier are not interchangeable.

  • HugeFan

    Look up “Gunstruction”. It’s a design site where visitors can virtually construct rifles to their liking. It’s pretty damn cool!

  • thederdog

    Gunstruction is awesome! Your right, it is pretty cool

  • HugeFan

    Yeah, it’s great for blue printing potential builds. Glad I could be of some assistance.

  • JimmyChadwick

    I have completed my AR 15 lower. What are the initial steps that should be taken to start the upper?

  • 42Coop42

    I am new to ARs’.. Can I use a model 1 sales 6.8 SPC upper half and put it on a stag arms 6.8 SPC lower half? Will this work, or do both halves need to be the same brand?

  • StevenTrout

    thederdog  yes, 300 Blackout.  Only thing different is the barrel

  • thederdog

    Thanks, just got my AR-10 lower, and colt trigger. Upper is on it’s way. Appreciate everyone’s help

  • palmer

    Hello, 
    I was wondering if you could build a full AR15 with the kits sold from Sportsmansguide. With the descriptions is seems you get everything you need. Please let me know.

    http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/ati-556x45mm-nato-ar-15-rifle-parts-kit-with-quad-rail-and-30-rd-pmag?a=1709339

    http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/80-ar-15-lower-receiver?a=1561586

  • palmer It sure looks like it to me, but that is also an 80% lower receiver so you will need a jig and a mill or a machine shop nearby.

  • 42Coop42 The upper and lower receivers do not have to be from the same manufacturer. Typically, if they are from the same manufacturer, the fit will be better but as long as they are in spec, you should be just fine.

  • JimmyChadwick I have an entire series of articles covering how to build an AR-15 from start to finish. You will just have to search this site for what you are looking for 🙂

  • thederdog I have not built an AR-10 style rifle yet so I cannot tell you for sure one way or another. Sorry 🙁

  • Sam Freedom Ha! Well, thanks! I am glad that you found it helpful 🙂

  • JMendez It usually shows up in the related articles section, if not just search for it up at the top of this page 🙂

  • JTMako You are welcome. I am happy to help!

  • Tyler0587 It’s on this site. You may have to search for it at the top of this page or visit my author page.

  • BrandonLittle2 There sure is! There is an entire series of articles that I have written showing how to build an AR-15 from start to finish. You can visit my author page or just search at the top of this page for what you are looking for.

  • palmer

    Nate Schultz palmer thanks! I thought as much just wanted to make sure

  • thederdog

    Already completed the lower for my AR-10. Pretty much the same as a AR-15.

  • DrewFire

    Just want to give a big thanks to you. 
    This helped me a lot to start my AR15 build 
    and gave me a huge insight of what I need 
    and what I should look for.
    Thank you again.
    – Andrew

  • exasperatus2002

    great articles. I have an 80% polymer lower receiver that I have to mill out for an ar 15. It doesn’t state what calibers it will handle. Do I have to go .223 or 5.56 will it handle 7.62 x 39 mm or .308 provided that Im using the appropriate upper receiver for the caliber I want to use?

  • chyldeorchid

    You’ll have to go with .223/5.56, you would need an AR10 receiver to chamber 7.62

  • I love your videos. I am building my first AR and have the complete lower including buffer assembly, stock and magazine. I have the upper with forward assist and dust cover installed. What’s next? Cbg or barrel assembly.any suggestions?

  • VVJoiner

    I want to get a kit for my thirteen year old son…WHAT DO I DO FIRST?  Besides the obvious….

  • Travis08

    Im considering using a magtech magnesium lower for an ar 15 build have not heard much about the magnesium lowers how do they compare to a forged lower will I lose any strength,durability or reliability using magnesium lower.I really like the look but do not want to compromise performance.
    Thanks
    Travis P

  • Jharris510

    Can a 308 upper be put on a lower that has a 223upper?

  • No.with the ar15 I believe that you can change out uppers to a maximum of 6.5 and 50 be wolf. Ar10 is a300 Blackout 308 platform.

  • Jharris510

    Thanks
    Jh

  • No.ar 15 is up to 6.5, 6.8 and 50 beowulf.ar10 is 300 black out and 308 and the like.it’s sorta similar to bolt action rifls……short action or long action, and the calibers that go along with such actions.

    • Freeman_vet

      I believe you can build the 300 blackout on a AR15 lower. AR10 is for “longer action” calibers such as 308. And there are some new platforms for 300 winmag.

      • Rick D

        300 black out needs a 300 black out upper but other than that I believe you use the same lower . Ill find out i just ordered a ,300 black out SBR upper for my range toy

  • For your first build I would stick to the ar15 platform regardless of what calibers you choose. ..i.e light to medium cartridge. Cheaper. ..a little. …it’s a relative term.but they both build the same way. If you have some mechanical skills and can follow directions and u tube videos you can build your upper and lower. Most people build their lower and then buy a complete upper.

  • But I think that’s cheating. If you’re going to do a build from scratch, then go the full Monty. …..much more satisfying when it’s said and done!

  • tyfultongx

    adam marks The 300 Blackout is built from the 5.56, so will function in the AR15.  It would only require a barrel change.  All other parts from an AR15 in 5.56 (or .223 Rem) will function, including the magazines and BCG.

  • Cool. I stand corrected. I thought the whole upper receiver needed to be changed out.

  • ThomasKarlmann

    What does this mean: “Q: Do I need to be licensed or be a gunsmith to build my own AR-15?A: Not unless you’re milling the lower receiver yourself.”  If all I need is a drill press, and an 80% lower, what regulation is stating that I need to be “licensed” or somehow be a “gunsmith”?  Please explain.

  • KitBolton

    No license needed. As long as you are building the AR for you, the law allows you to build at home. If you want to sell the AR you build using 80% lowers (no serial #’s) then you need to be licensed as a manufacturer. Anyone who can legally own an AR any other way (pass a background check at a gun shop) can legally buy and mill 80% lowers. The laws do not consider an 80% lower a finished part so it’s not a gun part yet therefore no FFL needed to buy them.

  • Fishinsurf1969

    I’m considering building a AR. Am I understanding this right, The only time I’ll have to fill out the paper work and follow the proper channels according to state law is when I purchase the lower receiver is that correct ?

  • Fishinsurf1969

    I just want to make sure That I’m following all the laws. The last thing I would want would be to break any gun law that would have a negative impact on myself.

  • I purchased a raw lower and it needs to be drilled, Where do I get directions for this?

  • Shuckins

    Greetings Nate, et al.  I’ve become interested in building a minimalist Ar-15 around the 6.5 Grendel.  However, I’ve never built an Ar-15 before, and I’m uncertain about whether or not my tool skills are up to the task.  I have trouble manipulating small parts.  So, is it possible to buy fully completed upper and lower receivers, and a barrel, which my meager skills would allow me to just “snap together”?  The same sort of thing would apply to the collapsible butt-stock, etc.

    Regards, Shuckins

  • Given your skill set, (no disrespect ) I would buy a complete upper in 6.5 , pick what lower you want. Have a gun smith or friend assemble said parts, i.e. dpms lower parts kit or whatever and I think you can handle the rest….that being the guns furniture and buffer tube assembly.

  • Shuckins

    adam marks 
    Thanks Adam.  Any particular brand of upper receiver & barrel that you would care to recommend?
    Regards

  • Spikes tactical makes some awesome barrels, but that’s just what I put on my build. Daniel defence is another. Unless you have a vice, armors wrench, upper and lower receiver vice blocks and a torque wrench I would just buy a complete upper. Don’t get me wrong though, with a small tool investment and several utube videos you can do the whole build your self. You’re eventually going to have to completely break it down for through cleaning anyway and the satisfaction of completely building it yourself can’t be beat. hope this helps.

  • auwillhunting9989

    I’ve got question, I feel that the barrel type is really important, I fully understand what a ideal barrel to pick for my build. My question is, what is the difference in, stainless steel, stainless steel lined, or just a standard barrel that you get when you purchase a standard ar15? Im a hunter and home defense type of guy, what type of barrel would you recommend??

  • auwillhunting9989

    I won’t to thank you on your web site, im going to build my own ar and didnt where and to begin, your site give alot of knowledge, Thanks!!!!

  • In my opinion, full stainless is reserved for the bull barrel reach out fuck someone up or match competition. If what you said is home defense and range , any good chrome lined barrel with the appropriate twist rate for your use will work just fine….and save you a ton of money. ……unless you plan on putting a M203 underneath it really doesn’t matter. …other than weight.

  • Chrome lined is just fine. Unless you are going to reach out and f. Someine up or match competition, I would stay away from full stainless. Besides you’ll save a ton of money. ….. benefits : less money, lightweight. All depends on twist rate desired and whether you plan on putting an M203 underneath.

  • P.s. there is no stainless lined. It’s full stainless or chrome lined, hamammered forge and fosghate coated .

  • No problem. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this site. If you have any problems during your build or want to bounce ideas back and forth, feel free. Hope my answers helped you….good luck and have fun.

  • auwillhunting9989

    Thanks, im sure I’ll have questions!!!!! ” God Bless Our Soldiers, Veterans, And The Ones That Gave All ” ( Right To Bare Arms)!!!!

  • Amen. Right back at cha brother….happy building. ..

  • Should have come with your 80% lower but the place you bought it or the Web is a good place to start.

  • I hear ya. Start by finding out what your laws are first about building an ar in your state, as all laws about that vary state by state.

  • I love in CA and if you know anything about an oppressed gun state, we’re it….for us the only thing that needs to be registered is the lower…unless you buy a 80% lower and mill the rest out yourself. Then it doesn’t need to be registered.

  • I need to amend a previous post. You can shoot up to 300 black out in the ar15 platform. Providing you change out the barrel of just swap out a complete upper.

  • You are correct. …my bad……brain fart.

  • No…only 300 black out because it uses a necked up 5.56 case…dimensions aren’t favorable for a 308 case without changing the lower dimensions ergo…the ar 10 platform.

  • I’ve heard about them as well but do not have any experience with them, sorry. ……utube it.

  • The closest you’ll get is 300 black out. Basically your 308 bullet in a 5.56 case.

  • I know. …I’m in a 12 step program right now for it…lol

  • DavidOliver3

    adam marks 300 AAC (Blackout) is ar15 platform.

  • Joseph Goins

    Cool.

  • TheLATEOne

    I’m thinking about getting into a hobby like this, could anyone give me an idea of what your typical beginner ar15 build would cost (not including the specific tools needed for the job)?

    • Rick D

      it varies a lot but one can easily be built in the 600 -700 range

Back to Top ↑



The Force12 Media Network
Fighter Sweep
WilkowMajority.com