It may seem like a silly question, but hey, we have to start somewhere. Perhaps the best way to understand the reloading process is to consider what happens when we actually fire a centre-fire round. In essence, reloading is reversing this process.

A centre-fire round contains four basic components; namely the case, a projectile, gunpowder and a primer. Figure 1. When a round is fired, the firing pin of the firearm strikes the primer which is located in the centre of the base of the case. Hence, centre-fire round. The primer contains a small explosive charge which emits an intense flash through a small hole in the base of the case called the “flash hole”. In doing this, the primer is effectively destroyed by the physical impact of the firing pin and the resulting ignition of the explosive material in the primer.
The flash from the primer ignites the gunpowder in the case, converting the gunpowder into a hot gas which quickly expands to create a high pressure (as high as 35,000 psi). This hot gas not only heats and expands the case, but expels the projectile from the case at high velocity; commonly 800-1200 feet per second, but can be double or even triple this for large caliber magnum pistol or long arm loads.
After the projectile leaves the firearm we are left with a distorted, hot, dirty case, no gunpowder, a non-functional primer and no projectile.
So, in reloading we need to:
- Clean and resize the case back to a serviceable size
- Remove the expended primer and replace it with a new primer
- Replace the gunpowder
- Replace the projectile and crimp it into the case
In addition, longer cases such as rifle calibers may expand in length, and hence need to be trimmed back to the correct length before reloading. This is best judged using a set of digital calipers to check the case length against the case length specifications in a set of reloading tables. As my focus is on reloading for pistols, and in my experience common pistol caliber cases don’t expand in length to any significant extent, I won’t discuss the case length trimming process any further. If your primary interest is reloading for rifle calibers, I suggest a good reloading manual specializing in rifle ammunition as a good place to look for case trimming procedures and equipment.


Whilst factory ammunition comes in various types of cases, only good quality brass cases can be reloaded, and then only a limited number of times. Each time a round is fired, the case expands under pressure, especially around the case mouth where the projectile is held. During reloading, the entire case is compressed back into shape and size, and the crimp compresses the case mouth to hold the projectile in place. This repetitive expansion and compression causes metal fatigue, particularly around the case mouth. Eventually the case mouth will split, see Figure 2, and this marks the end of the service life of that case. i.e. it is now scrap value. The condition of the case, especially the case mouth, needs to be checked each time before it is reloaded. I find the best way to do this is to rotate the case with the case mouth between the thumb and forefinger, Figure 3. The tactile senses in the finger tips are very good at feeling any split in the case mouth. This takes bit of practice, but is often more effective than visual inspection of the case. In practice I have found that cases can be reloaded between 10 and 20 times. This depends a lot on the quality of the original cases and how “hot” your loads are.
At the end of the reloading process, you should have a nice bright, shiny round of ammunition which will work well in your firearm, and cost around half the price of a new factory round.
In the next article I will discuss the various reasons why you may want to reload your own ammunition. It certainly isn’t for everyone, but it can be a rewarding and cost saving addition to your shooting skills.
Featured image of once fired brass courtesy of Best Reloading Brass via amazon.com
Thanks for the feedback and input Alessio. I’m sure the TAG followers will benefit immensely from your greater knowledge of rifle reloading procedures.
Thanks for the feedback on reloading for rifles. If all I achieve is to stimulate feedback and discussion on the broader topic of reloading, I will have achieved my primary objective. As far as processing military style cases, yeah it’s a big problem. Unless you are prepared to up the ante and go to a Dillon 1050 (or equivalent) with a case timmer etc, the process you have described is certainly the way to go as a cost effective solution. At almost 4 times the cost of a 550, the 1050 is a big investment unless you are doing a lot of reloading. We’ll be talking about that issue very soon.
AussieWombat1 I’ll definitely enjoy reading the rest of the series as I also find it relaxing but yet a challenge to find that sweet spot for a load. I jumped on the 300BLK wagon some time ago; so reloading is the only real way to keep my mags fed at reasonable cost.
AussieWombat1 I’ll definitely enjoy reading the rest of the series as I also find it relaxing but yet a challenge to find that sweet spot for a load. I jumped on the 300BLK wagon some time ago; so reloading is the only real way to keep my mags fed at reasonable cost.
AussieWombat1 The weak spot in a case is the mouth because it is streatched during fireing, reforming, belling so that the bullet will start easier and crimping. Once you cut the case down as in going from a .357 magnum to a 38 special or 38 SW you are moving the mouth to an area that has not been streatched so much.
Reason #1 why I reload: $$ Savings. Once you get past your initial investment, it’s not even close. I had to laugh when I saw Sportsman’s Warehouse selling 50 rds of 9mm for $19. Target ammo, no less. I don’t buy powder or primers in bulk and I can still get it around $7 for 50 rds, and could easily get it lower if I wanted.
Reason #1 why I reload: $$ Savings. Once you get past your initial investment, it’s not even close. I had to laugh when I saw Sportsman’s Warehouse selling 50 rds of 9mm for $19. Target ammo, no less. I don’t buy powder or primers in bulk and I can still get it around $7 for 50 rds, and could easily get it lower if I wanted.
Thanks for the input CK5150. I’m sure you’ll appreciate the follow-up article on reloading cost/benefit.